Cupola Hut was a base for scientific research and is now a warm winter abode. Photo: Peter Laurenson

A high country charmer

June 2022

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June 2022

Cupola Hut, Nelson Lakes National Park

My first visit to Cupola Hut was one winter when the snow was so deep we had to dig our way inside. A shovel mounted above the hut’s door is there for a good reason. So when I returned, again in winter, my memories were of a very cold spot. This second time though, there was no snow to dig and a potbelly stove had been installed.

The hut was built in 1957 as a base for scientific research. There are eight bunks and one quite unusual feature is sliding windows at the north-west corner. From here, you can gaze out from the comfort of your sleeping bag on the top bunk, while breathing in fresh mountain air. The windows were installed so researchers could observe the birdlife. 

The hut is situated just below the tree line, amongst beautiful beech forest, and the view to the south face of Mt Hopeless, with its intimidatingly exposed couloir route to the summit, is spectacular. 

Just a minute’s climbing above the hut and you’re on a rolling tussock shelf with views of peaks above from north to south when looking west; and more open vistas down Cupola Creek to the St Arnaud Range when looking east. 

For climbers, Cupola Hut gives ideal access to Mt Cupola and Mt Hopeless, as well as several high points along the craggy ridge running between those two well-known peaks.

June 2022

Read more from

June 2022

Distance
19.1km from Coldwater Hut
Total Ascent
1206m
Grade
Moderate
Time
Coldwater Hut to John Tait Hut, 4-5hr; John Tait Hut to Cupola Hut, 2-3hr
Accom.
Cupola Hut ($5, eight bunks)
Access
By water taxi from Saint Arnaud to Coldwater Hut or via the Lakehead Track from St Arnaud
Map
BS24

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Cupola Hut via Coldwater Hut (gpx, 18 KB)

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Peter Laurenson

About the author

Peter Laurenson

Peter is a tramper, occasional climber, photographer, editor and writer. His adventures, spanning 30+ years, come together on his website ‘OccasionalClimber’. Richmond-based, Peter is editor of FMC’s Backcountry and has published three books: Occasional Climber (2013) and Khumbu (2021) and Aotearoa Light (2025).

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