‘They’re full of tourists … not the real backcountry … they’re just highways … the huts are like hotels …’
You’ve probably heard all the above comments. You may even think all of the above. But are they true? Should you give the Great Walks a miss?
The answer is no. According to the Department of Conservation, these are premier tracks that pass through diverse and spectacular scenery. From native forests, lakes and rivers to rugged mountain peaks, deep gorges and vast valleys, the Great Walks showcase the best of the country and have much to offer.
Teresa Moreno from Wellington had never wanted to do a Great Walk, “or any overnight walk for that matter,” she says. “The idea of carrying a heavy pack, sleeping with strangers, and not being able to shower for days, was too much for me.”
But, when she was 38, she decided to give the Routeburn Track a go. “I’d been obsessed with the Bear Grylls Air New Zealand safety video for years. I figured it couldn’t be that bad if you got to see those landscapes.”
That was a few years ago, and every Christmas since, Moreno has ticked off another Great Walk. “The Routeburn got me hooked,” she says. “I still think it’s the best walk in New Zealand. At least in terms of what I call ‘clicks per km’, which is basically the awesomeness of the track – photo clicks – relative to the distance.”
1 Logistics
Getting to and from a Great Walk is easy: an industry is built around them. Every track is accessible from major towns and well-serviced for accommodation and transport.
Flights, shuttles, car relocations, packages – you want it, someone provides it. Let someone else take care of the logistics; you can relax, knowing your car isn’t going to be broken into at a remote trailhead and you will get to where you need to be on time.
2 Safety
Although any tramp has its risks and you should always follow the Land Safety Code, Great Walks tracks are well-formed and have good signage. Trampers, especially solo trampers, can feel safer with more people on the track.
In season, there is a warden at every hut and campsite with a list of every tramper who’s supposed to be there. Spots must be booked and registered with DOC before you leave; missing trampers are noticed quickly and it’s easy for the warden to get help.
Louis Meyer from Queenstown likes the freedom of having a relatively safe and easy-to-follow route. “It allows my mind to wander and take in more of what nature has to offer,” he says.
3 Scenery, flora and fauna
Need we say more? The very best of New Zealand’s scenery, friendly wildlife and native flora are waiting.
There are awe-inspiring mountains, native forests and alpine meadows, immense lakes or dramatic volcanic landscapes. You can paddle among remote hills and bush-clad valleys, or go back in time in lush rainforest and glacial valleys. There are remote beaches and golden coastal trails, breathtaking views and majestic waterfalls.
Karen Jordan from Hokitika has experienced most of the Great Walks with her children. “I love the variety. My favourites are the Routeburn and the Paparoa,” she says. “On the Routeburn, it was great looking over the Hollyford Valley, and on the Paparoa I loved being on the tops and seeing all three huts at once.”
4 Accessibility
As DOC says, ‘There’s a Great Walk for everyone’. Well, maybe not everyone, but they do allow tens of thousands of people to enjoy the beauty of New Zealand’s outdoors safely, at a level that’s suitable for them.
A guided experience can offer more comfort or reassurance; help with luggage or gear can assist with physical or health requirements. Adventures can also be tailored, as most Great Walks can be done in sections, in different directions or out and back.
Carol Stoney and Henry Boyce from Auckland are both in their early 60s. Their first tramp was the Heaphy in 2020, and they’ve been hooked ever since. Stoney says: “When you get to a certain age and have some health and mobility concerns, being able to plan, train for and complete a Great Walk is a huge sense of achievement.”
Boyce adds: “The Great Walks are a way of appreciating not only the beauty of our natural landscape but also our good health and fortune.”
5 Facilities
Great Walk huts are the most comfortable backcountry huts, according to DOC. They have mattresses, water supply, toilets, hand-washing facilities and heating with fuel available.
They may have solar lighting, cooking facilities with fuel and a hut warden.
You can only stay at a hut or a campsite on a Great Walk if you’ve booked, so you’re guaranteed a bed and know exactly what to take.
If you’re in a hut there’s no need to carry a tent, and huts with gas provided means no need to take a stove. Result: lighter packs all around.
6 Hut warden
Great Walks hut wardens are knowledgeable and passionate people. They’re proud of their huts and tracks, and enjoy sharing them and their love of the outdoors with trampers.
There are nature walks and opportunities to learn about the history of the area. You might even get especially lucky and experience Great Walk legend Ross Harraway’s famous nature quiz and scones on the Milford Track.
7 Community
Trampers are neat people to be around, and those on a Great Walk are no exception. There’ll be polyglot groups: people from all walks of life and nationalities with a love of the outdoors in common. Tracks like the Milford, where you can’t skip huts or change direction, create tight-knit groups of people who can become friends.
If you’ve got friends who want to get into tramping, Great Walks are a perfect way to ease them in gently and share your passion. It’s a little softer than throwing them into a week-long backcountry mission. With just as many epic views and experiences, they’ll soon be hooked.
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