From here, there’s a view of the first pass to cross which, although unmarked on the topo map, was described in the Home Hill Hut book as Bumble Bee Pass.

We crossed a relatively flat tussock basin which is interwoven by babbling creeks. Approaching the pass, between Pt1700 and Pt1649, the gradient steepened with the tussock giving way to loose scree for the last 30m to the saddle. It was hard work, but on the other side of the pass, another steep scree slope led to a bright blue tarn that is unmarked on the map. This made for good scree running and soon we were sidling to the larger tarn by Pt1395. With plenty of flat ground and water, this tarn would make for an excellent campsite but we had left our tents at home.

It is a gradual but steady climb up to the final pass, a rolling saddle between Pt1548 and Pt1800, that leads into the Steele Valley. From here, there are magnificent views of the upper Steele Creek and its west branch which flows out of a sapphire lake nestled below Tongue Spur.

After another scree slope descent from the pass until about the 1100m contour, a scrubby gut leads into the forest. At around the 900m contour, a stream flows into Steele Creek and after crossing that waterway the Steele Creek Track is reached. From here, there’s another half hour to reach the cosy four bunk Steele Creek Hut.

The following day, we headed back upstream, past the point where we had dropped off the Ailsa Mountains. It gradually ascends the valley until crossing in front of the base of Tongue Spur and then climbing steadily all the way to the pass at the head of the valley.

Once out of the bush, the track crisscrosses the creek, making its way through some rather dense patches of scrub. At the pass, though are worthy views over the Steele, Caples, Fraser and Kay Valleys – ample reward for the work required to reach this point.

From the pass it’s a slippery sidle to reach the spur leading down from Pt1611.

The descent through the bush is knee-jarring but is over quickly and you’re soon at the track junction beside Upper Caples Hut.

From here, it is about four hours of easy walking down the Caples Valley, with the possibility of a stop halfway at Mid Caples Hut. This was too tempting to resist, as the swimming-hole on the far side of the canyon, is divine.

The trip over the Ailsa Mountains is hard work in parts, but rewarding. There are also many options to tailor the trip, with overnight camping/hutting possible at the Birchdale Homestead, Home Hill Hut, and the tarn at Pt1395. Alternate routes out include the track south to the Greenstone or to continue North from the Caples Valley over Kay Saddle.

– Sam Harrison